Sunlight flickers over the three bridges built one on top of the other in the 12th, 18th and 20th centuries. The oldest is not the work of the devil, but rather of monks from Strata Florida (Ystrad Fflur) Abbey.
The bridges of Devil's Bridge span a gorge, narrow but deep. The temperature drops as you descend the fearsome steps to its belly. Moss reaches out to the moisture.
Even at low water, Devil’s Punch Bowl is astonishing. Water has carved the rock into a sequence of barrels in which it whirls cold and black, all bubbles and incessant noise like a terrible washing machine.
Looking for more walks in Wales? Check out our pick of the best walks in Eryri (Snowdonia), Pembrokeshire and the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons).
Devil’s Bridge walk
6.8 miles/10.9 km| 4.5 hours| moderate| 388m ascent
1. Devil’s Bridge Nature Trail
Save Devil’s Punch Bowl till last and begin with the Devil’s Bridge Nature Trail. This circular walk descends very steeply from Devil’s Bridge Car Park to the bottom of the waterfalls before climbing back.
The falls appear like a long flickering streamer. Their tumult is tamed by a squeeze-through at the Mynach’s confluence with Afon Rheidol. Exit by the Hafod Hotel.
2. Chocolate Shop
To see something of the river that feeds the falls, turn right on the road then cross it and take the path left of the Chocolate Shop (follow waymarkers to Ponthrydfendigaid till crossing the river). Cross fields, turn left on to a farm track, then on reaching the road, cross it.
3. Aber Bodcoll
The trail continues down the drive to Aber Bodcoll. Note the footpath you’ll return by, but keep to the main track alongside Afon Mynach. Craggy hills rise on the right, on which you’ll notice disused lead mine workings. Narrow and stony, Afon Mynach chatters along, a brilliant blue between rushes or dark beneath alder. Continue into the forestry.
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4. Afon Mynach bridge
Cross the small bridge over Afon Mynach. Head to a low wall then bear left, aiming for another footbridge at the field corner under the forestry.
Cross the bridge and follow waymarkers to and along the track, continuing with a sunny vantage point over the valley, ducking sometimes into forestry.
5. Afon Mynach crossing
The path twists up and over a gorsy hill among young trees thinning to bracken, with splendid views.
Descend through oak woodland, then through a wooden gate and left around the base of the hill back to Afon Mynach.
6. Devil’s Punch Bowl
Here the river passes languidly through a gorge. Water reflects green moss, and the sound of white water hints at the drama ahead. Cross the footbridge and rejoin the Aber Bodcoll track to return the way you came.
Once back at the car park, finish your walk by descending to Devil’s Punch Bowl.
Devil's Bridge map
OS Maps: Devil's Bridge walking route
Useful information
Starting point
If you’re driving, head for the car park at SY23 3JW. Buses are infrequent. To travel from Aberystwyth by Vale of Rheidol Railway is delightful.
Terrain
An entrance fee is payable by turnstile at Devil’s Punch Bowl and the Nature Walk – both have such steep, sometimes slippery steps, you are advised to abstain unless used to strenuous activity.
The Afon Mynach walk includes tracks and one steep hill.
Map
OS Explorer 213
Eat/drink
You’ll find a choice of cafes.
Stay
