The noise of the falls swells in volume until, silencing everything else, it’s all you know. Standing behind Henrhyd Falls (Sgwd Henrhyd) is a multi-sensory experience.
It sends cool draughts to shiver you awake while, pouring above you like old glass, it distorts trees on the ridge into wobbly shapes.
Further down its drop from the rock, the water is less translucent, forming white swags. At the base it is all white. Crashing into the pool it rebounds in plumes and drifting veils that kiss and douse you, leaving you elated by ozone, cleansed and caressed and all-consumed.
Witness the breathtaking Henrhyd Falls and Nant Llech on a 2.5 river and forest walk, starting and ending at the National Trust car park.
Looking for more walks in Wales? Check out our guides to the best walks in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacon), Pembrokeshire and Eryri (Snowdonia).
Britain's amazing waterfalls
Discover enchanting falls, cascades and plunge pools on a walk or day out with our round-up of Britain's most spectacular waterfalls.
Henrhyd Falls walk
3.9 miles/6.3km | 2.5 hours | moderate | 254m ascent
1. Henrhyd Falls National Trust car park
Save the falls for last. From the Henrhyd Falls National Trust car park, turn right and walk south-east down the lane.
Cross the bridge over Nant Llech then turn right to enter Coelbren, walking 500m to the village bus stop (served by hourly buses from Neath).
Continue west as you descend to the gorge, passing a church, village shop, playground and bungalows, aware of traffic on the nearby A422 careening past. This is a high moory plateau deeply incised by glacial gorges, Nant Llech being just one.
Four Waterfalls Walk
Just down the road from Henrhyd is Waterfall Country, a must for anyone visiting the Bannau Brycheiniog National Park. There are several options when it comes to exploring the area, including the mesmerising 5.5-mile Four Waterfalls Walk.
2. Nant Llech gorge
Pass the Monkey Sanctuary, noting the Bannau Brycheiniog hills rising ahead over Abercraf village.
Following signs, cross the stile and continue over the field. On reaching the road turn right, then over a stile and left into another field. After another stile, descend steps through lovely oak woodland. Ahead is the confluence of Nant Llech and Afon Tawe.
Cross the footbridge, then follow the sign for ‘Waterfalls’, which leads you along a narrow path, deep in the wooded Nant Llech gorge.
3. Woodland walk
Continue through leafy woodland among oak, holly, hazel and birch. Rocky cliffs channel the brown water as the gorge closes in.
4. Melin Llech
Ruined walls are all that remains of the water mill that once took advantage of the modest falls at Melin Llech. At their top the water gathers lazily before flopping over the rock.
Continuing on, grasses cascade down the bank from the moory plateau. The gorge walls are still high overhead, bracken slopes above them sometimes visible, but there is a sense of narrowing as you near the end of the gorge.
Veer right off the main path, crossing the river on a wooden bridge before climbing steps.
5. Henrhyd Falls
Henrhyd Falls is the finale. The water forms a curtain, behind which you can walk due to mudstone being eroded from under the protruding harder sandstone lip. Climb out of the gorge back to the car park, or back to Coelbren if you arrived by bus.
Henrhyd Falls map
OS Map: Henrhyd Falls walking route
Useful information
Starting point
Drivers head for the Henrhyd Falls National Trust car park, Dol Henrhyd, SA10 9PH. Coelbren is served by hourly buses from Neath (Castell-Nedd), which has a mainline train station, making public transport an easy option.
Terrain
The walk is slippery and steep in places.
Map
OS Explorer OL12
Eat anddrink
Coelbren village has one shop. The Ancient Briton pub is in nearby Pen-y-cae.