One of the delights of winter is the arrival of bitter, fragrant Seville oranges from Spain. They're in season between December and February, and we buy more of them in the UK than any other country. Their depth of flavour makes them more versatile and better to cook with than their sweeter cousins that are available in supermarkets all year round. The day you make marmalade, whether it's once a year or several times throughout the Seville oranges season, is the day the street is permeated with the tangy aroma of Moorish Spain.
The perfect marmalade should be tangy and sweet, with a decent bite. This recipe, from River Cottage, uses the whole fruit – which makes it easy and less time-consuming than traditional methods, but gives the full, rounded flavour profile of this delicious citrus fruit.
Recipe from Preserves: River Cottage Handbook No2 by Pam Corbin (Bloomsbury, 16.99).
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